1 whole
dried Thai bird chili (or 1 whole chile de arbol), more or less to taste
2 whole
small shallots, peeled and split into quarters
4 whole
cloves garlic
1 stalk
lemongrass, bottom 4 inches only, roughly chopped
1 teaspoon
makrut lime zest, or 2 whole makrut lime leaves (see note above)
1 (1-inch)
knob fresh turmeric, roughly chopped
2 thin
slices ginger
1 small
bunch cilantro stalks, cut from the very base of the stalks, leaves and thin
stems reserved for another use
1 teaspoon
whole coriander seed
6 pods Thai
black cardamom or 1 pod green cardamom, inner seeds only
Kosher salt
1 1/2
tablespoons Thai shrimp paste
1 cup
vegetable or canola oil
1 pound
fresh Chinese-style egg noodles, divided
2 (15-ounce)
cans coconut milk, or 2 cups fresh coconut milk (do not shake)
1 cup
homemade or store-bought low-sodium chicken stock
2
tablespoons palm sugar (see note above)
4 chicken
legs, split into drumsticks and thighs
Fish sauce
to taste
Sliced
shallots, lime wedges, and pickled Chinese mustard root (see note above) for
serving
Toasting the aromatics before making the curry paste deepens
their flavors and makes them softer and easier to pound.
Using a real mortar and pestle along with a pinch of salt
extracts the most flavor from the aromatics to make the best curry paste.
Makrut lime (also sold as kaffir lime) and palm sugar can be
found in Asian specialty grocers or some high-end supermarkets. If palm sugar
can't be found, brown sugar can be used in its place. If makrut lime can't be
found, omit. Pickled mustard greens can be found in most Chinese markets.
Place chili, shallots, garlic, lemongrass, lime zest,
turmeric, ginger, cilantro stalks, coriander seed, and cardamom in the center
of a 12- by 12-inch square of heavy duty aluminum foil. Gather edges up to make
a tight pouch. Place pouch directly over the flame of a gas burner and cook,
turning occasionally, until aromatic and wisps of smoke begin to rise, about 8
minutes. If no gas burner is available, place the pouch in the bottom of a wok
or cast iron skillet and heat over high heat, turning occasionally, until
smoky, about 10 minutes. Allow contents to cool slightly and transfer to a
large mortar and pestle.
Add a large pinch of salt to the aromatics. Pound until a
very fine paste is formed, about 10 minutes. Add shrimp paste and pound to
incorporate. Set curry paste mixture aside.
Separate out 1/4 of the noodles (enough noodles to make a
crispy fried-noodle topping for 4 bowls) and set the remaining noodles aside.
Heat vegetable oil in a large wok over high heat until shimmering. Working in
batches, add noodles to oil and fry, stirring and flipping until golden brown
and crisp. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. Season with salt and set
aside.
Discard all but 1 tablespoon oil from wok. Using a spoon,
skim 2 tablespoons of creamy fat off the top of the coconut milk and add to the
wok. Heat wok over high heat and cook, stirring constantly, until coconut milk
breaks and oil begins to lightly smoke, about 2 minutes. Add curry paste
mixture and cook, stirring and smearing the paste into the oil, until aromatic,
about 45 seconds.
Slowly whisk in the coconut milk, followed by the chicken
stock and palm sugar. Add chicken legs and bring to a simmer. Cook, turning
chicken occasionally, until chicken is tender and broth is very flavorful,
about 30 minutes. Season to taste with fish sauce.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Add remaining
uncooked noodles and cook until al dente, about 1 minute. Drain noodles and
divide between four warmed bowls. Top noodles with two pieces of chicken.
Divide broth evenly between bowls. Top with fried noodles and serve immediately
with sliced shallots, lime wedges, and pickled mustard greens on the side.
